Charcoal flames lap around the edges of a whole Portuguese turbot. A fish so fresh you want to give it a quick knock to the head to make sure it’s not feeling the heat. A fish that was sitting, just 20 minutes ago, in a quintessentially local wet market and has since been driven up the hill at breakneck speed to this beautiful box of glass and steel. A fish that’s about to meet its companions for the evening: bacalhau chickpeas, chourico and vino verde – which men’s clothing designer Wayne Sørensen produces in an effortless whirlwind.
The sun is setting, and although it’s the most commonplace thing in this world, you can’t help but comment on its blood-red majesty as it throws its final rays over the arid landscape just north of Portugal’s second city, Porto.